River cruise rental Auxerre - 2 river cruises

Where Vineyards Meet Waterways: Auxerre Awaits

Nestled in the heart of the Burgundy wine region, Auxerre stands as one of France's best-kept secrets for barge river cruise enthusiasts. This captivating town on the River Yonne, approximately 150 km southeast of Paris and 120 km northwest of Dijon, offers an enchanting gateway to the legendary Canal du Nivernais and the surrounding countryside. Named a "Town of Art and History" in 1995, Auxerre blends medieval charm with riverside allure in ways that few destinations can match.

The Geography of Gentle Exploration

Auxerre sits at the confluence of the River Yonne and the Canal du Nivernais, making it an ideal starting point or destination for barge river cruises. The town lies at a latitude of approximately 47.8°N and longitude of 3.57°E, enjoying a temperate climate with an average yearly temperature of around 11.5°C. July typically brings the warmest weather at about 20°C, while January sees averages around 3.6°C. The region receives moderate rainfall throughout the year, with April being the driest month. This climate creates perfect conditions for cruising from spring through autumn.

Why a Barge River Cruise in Auxerre Will Transform Your Holiday

The Canal du Nivernais, often called the "canal jardin" (garden canal), stretches 174 kilometres through some of the most pristine countryside in France. This waterway remains remarkably unspoiled, having experienced no industrial or urban impact over the centuries. The canal connects the Seine basin to the Loire, passing through rolling vineyards, limestone cliffs, and charming villages that seem frozen in time.

A Pace That Restores the Soul

Unlike rushed coach tours or hectic city breaks, a barge river cruise allows you to experience the authentic rhythm of French countryside life. The well-maintained towpath running alongside the canal invites you to walk or cycle between locks, discovering hidden corners of Burgundy at your own pace. The region offers an exceptional way to experience stunning landscapes, historical towns, and rich culture, with the picturesque waterway lined by lush greenery and charming villages inviting exploration at a leisurely pace.

Wine Country at Your Doorstep

The section of Canal du Nivernais that crosses the Auxerrois region is known as the "Vineyard Stop" thanks to the numerous wine villages dotting its banks. You will find yourself cruising past vineyard-covered hillsides, with easy access to some of Burgundy's finest wine-producing areas. From Auxerre, the world-renowned Chablis vineyards lie just 16 kilometres to the east, offering exceptional white wines made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes that have been cultivated here since Roman times.

Your Barge Cruise Itinerary: What to Expect

Navigating the Waters

The Canal du Nivernais is navigable from April to October through 116 locks along its full length. The waterway alternates between the man-made canal and the natural River Yonne, creating varied scenery as you travel. The locks still use old-style beam levers rather than modern cranks and gears in some sections, offering an authentic glimpse into canal heritage. The canal was originally built to transport firewood from the Morvan Forest to Paris, opening in 1843 after sixty years of construction.

Planning Your Days

Most barge cruises from Auxerre offer a delightful mix of morning and afternoon cruising, giving you ample time for shore excursions. Typical routes head south along the Yonne, passing through wine villages like Vincelles, Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, and Irancy before continuing to medieval Clamecy, often described as "the town of beautiful reflections" due to its position surrounded by water at the confluence of the Yonne and Beuvron rivers.

The scenic rocky cliffs called Les Saussois near Merry-sur-Yonne form dramatic limestone formations that are popular with rock climbers, while less adventurous visitors can hike to the top for panoramic views. These vertical cliffs, reaching about fifty metres in height, add unexpected drama to the otherwise gentle countryside.

Auxerre's Elegant Highlights: Beyond the Expected

A Skyline of Spires and Stories

From the river, Auxerre presents one of France's most photogenic townscapes. Three magnificent churches rise above the half-timbered houses: the Church of Saint Pierre, the Cathedral of Saint-Étienne, and the Abbey of Saint-Germain. The Gothic cathedral, begun in 1215, is considered a masterpiece rivalling any in northern France for the splendour of its portal sculptures and stained glass windows. The cathedral contains one of the most beautiful collections of preserved stained glass in France, with windows dating from the 15th and 16th centuries.

The Crypt That Time Preserved

Beneath the Abbey of Saint-Germain lie crypts containing frescoes dating from between 841 and 857, making them the oldest church frescoes in France. These remarkable artworks survived because they were plastered over and only rediscovered in 1927, preserving art that elsewhere exists only in illuminated manuscripts.

The Clock Tower Gateway

The 15th-century Tour de l'Horloge (Clock Tower) serves as an old town gateway featuring both a sundial and moondial in striking ochre and gold colours. This landmark has been chiming the hours since its creation and remains the heart of the historic quarter.

Five Exclusive Experiences for the Discerning Traveller

1. The Ancient Urban Vineyard

The Clos de la Chaînette is one of the oldest documented vineyards in France, mentioned in the will of Bishop Saint Vigile in the 7th century as part of the Abbey of Saint-Germain's estate. This enclosed urban vineyard, covering approximately 4 hectares within Auxerre itself, is the only vineyard still producing within the town limits. Today owned by the local hospital centre, it produces wines under the Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre appellation and offers guided visits. This is the most ancient plot of vines in Burgundy, predating even the famous vineyards near Beaune.

2. Underground Wine Caves at Bailly

Just south of Auxerre, the Caves Bailly Lapierre occupy former underground chalk quarries covering four hectares. Since 1972, a cooperative of 71 local winegrowers has used these caves to produce sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne, aged in conditions similar to those in Champagne. Guided tours and tastings are available in English, and the cellar maintains a constant temperature of 12°C year-round.

3. The Subterranean Stonework of Aubigny

Near Vincelles, the quarries of Aubigny reveal a subterranean wonderland where limestone was extracted for prestigious buildings including the Paris Opera House. This often-overlooked site offers fascinating insights into the region's industrial heritage and the craft of stoneworking.

4. Following Cadet Roussel

Guillaume Joseph Rousselle, known as Cadet Roussel, was an 18th-century bailiff whose eccentric character and bizarrely adorned house won him such affection that a popular song was written about him in 1792. The tune became so widespread that it was adopted by soldiers and is still sung by children in French schools today. A statue by sculptor François Brochet stands in Place Charles Surruge, and brass arrows embedded in the ground guide visitors to where Rousselle lived and worked. This quirky trail reveals a side of Auxerre that few tourists discover.

5. Dining on the Water

For a truly local experience, seek out the Péniche d'Auxerre, a floating restaurant with a rooftop terrace offering fresh, contemporary cuisine on the water. In the evenings, the Scène des Quais on the riverbanks hosts theatre productions and concerts on barges, ending your day with cultural performances in an unforgettable setting.

Culinary Treasures to Savour

Auxerre and its surroundings offer distinctive gastronomic experiences that reflect Burgundian traditions:

• Gougères: These baked choux pastries made with local cheese are a quintessential Burgundian treat, perfect with an aperitif
• Kir: This traditional aperitif combines local white Bourgogne Aligoté wine with crème de cassis, the regional blackcurrant liqueur that originated in Burgundy
• Escargots de Bourgogne: Burgundy snails prepared with garlic and parsley butter remain a regional speciality
• Truffe bourguignonne: The Burgundy truffle adds earthy luxury to local cuisine

For fine dining, L'Aspérule holds a Michelin star under French-trained Japanese chef Keigo Kimura, who reinterprets classic French dishes in a minimalist setting.

Wines Worth Seeking

The Auxerrois wine region produces several distinctive appellations:

• Chablis: Perhaps the world's most famous white wine, made exclusively from Chardonnay on unique limestone terroir
• Crémant de Bourgogne: Sparkling wine following Champagne methods, with strong production in and around Auxerre
• Saint-Bris AOC: The only white wine in Burgundy made from Sauvignon grapes
• Irancy: The most famous red wine from northern Burgundy, grown in a village surrounded by 251 hectares of vines
• Bourgogne Aligoté: Dry white wine from Burgundy's second most popular grape variety after Chardonnay

Meet the winegrowers of the Auxerrois vineyards directly, where you can purchase wines at affordable prices directly from the source.

Practical Wisdom for Your Journey

Getting There

Auxerre is conveniently located approximately 1.5 hours from Paris by road via the A6 motorway, often called "the Sun" due to its route toward the Mediterranean. The Auxerre-Saint-Gervais station offers rail connections to Paris, Dijon, Corbigny, and Avallon, making the town easily accessible for international travellers.

Best Time to Visit

The cruising season runs from April to October, with the best conditions typically found from late spring through early autumn. The canal's moderate traffic allows for a peaceful experience throughout the season, though summer months bring warmer weather ideal for towpath walks and outdoor dining.

What to Bring

Comfortable walking shoes are essential for exploring cobbled streets and towpaths. Layers are advisable given the variable weather, and sun protection is recommended for deck time. A camera is indispensable for capturing the picturesque views of Auxerre from the water and the changing landscapes along the canal.

A Town That Rewards the Curious

Auxerre is divided into three distinctive historic quarters: Le Quartier Saint Pierre, Le Quartier de la Marine, and Quartier de l'Horloge. Each area has its own character and history, all worth exploring. The marine quarter along the river recalls Auxerre's former seafaring activity when the Yonne made the town's fortune as a vital transport route toward Paris. Nearly the entire historic town centre, spanning 67 hectares, is classified as a conservation area, protecting the remarkable collection of medieval buildings and half-timbered facades.

The old town gateway, narrow medieval streets, attractive squares with stone water features, and creaking timber-framed houses with corbels projecting over the streets create an atmosphere where history feels tangible. One of the loveliest streets is the hilly Rue Fécauderie, where carved timbers on the houses at the junction with Rue Joubert deserve special attention.

Beyond Auxerre: Day Trip Possibilities

A barge cruise from Auxerre opens doors to remarkable destinations within easy reach:

• Vézelay: A UNESCO World Heritage hilltop town crowned by its 12th-century Romanesque Basilica of St. Mary Magdalene, considered a masterpiece of medieval architecture
• Noyers-sur-Serein: Famed as one of the most beautiful villages in France, with medieval castle ruins and half-timbered houses
• Pontigny: Home to the largest Cistercian abbey church in France
• Château de Tanlay: One of the finest Renaissance châteaux in Burgundy, known for its trompe l'œil gallery and frescoes
• Château de Bazoches: A 12th-century castle that once welcomed Richard the Lionheart

The Art of Slow Travel

A barge river cruise through Auxerre offers something increasingly rare in modern travel: the gift of time. As the Burgundy countryside unfolds at walking pace, as locks rise and fall with the same mechanical grace they have shown for centuries, as wine villages appear around each gentle bend, you will understand why this form of travel has endured for forty years as one of Europe's most refined holiday experiences.

Book a barge river cruise now and let Auxerre reveal its layers of history, gastronomy, and natural beauty at a pace that allows for genuine discovery and lasting memories.